Why Burgundy Makes Ones of the Best Wines in the World and is Worth a Visit.
« The vineyard and wine are great mysteries. Alone in the vegetable kingdom, the vine gives us a true understanding of the savor of the earth. And how faithfully it is translated! Through it we realize that even flint can be living, yielding, nourishing. Even the unemotional chalk weeps in wine, golden tears ».
- Colette, Prisons et Paradis.
SENSE OF PLACE
Nowhere else in the world has so much energy been used to translate this message into reality. The earth speaks in Burgundy as it does nowhere else and the vine is its interpreter.
Burgundy, « Bourgogne » in French, is the birthplace of the concept of « Terroir ».
What is a Climat?
Climate, in English, does not refer to meteorology but is a specific Burgundian word referring to wine Terroir: uniting a plot of land, a grape variety and a savoir-faire.
« In Burgundy, when we talk about Climats, we do not raise our eyes to the sky but we lower them on the earth”.
- Bernard Pivot.
Each wine from a « Climat » has its own taste and place in the hierarchy of wines (Regional Appellation, Village, Premier Cru, Grand Cru).
There are more than 1.000 « Climats » spread across the « Côte d’Or » from Dijon to Santenay among them, illustrious names such as Montrachet, Romanée-Conti and Chambertin.
Since July 2015, the system of Climats is part of the UNESCO world heritage and create the DNA of the wines from this part of Burgundy.
This short movie will show you how geology has shaped the landscape of Burgundy and the patchwork of plots that are the Climats.
Burgundy is located in the center-east of France at about 3 hours drive from Switzerland and Paris.
Five wines make what Burgundy is today.
These 5 distinct subregions are from north to south:
- Chablis
- Côte d’Or
- Côte Chalonnaise
- Mâconnais
- Beaujolais
What about the wines that are among the best in the world?
When we speak of Burgundy and of ones of the best wines in the world, what is really being referred to are the wines who come from what is called the « Slope of Gold » or « Côte d’Or » in French.
The name speaks to the beauty of the wines it creates, the prices they fetch and the color of its vineyards after the vintage as the leaves turn to a beautiful russet-gold. Fall is definitely a great time of the year to visit!
Côte d’Or is formed
- Côte de Nuit (Mostly Reds wines)
- Côte de Beaune (Mostly Whites wines)
In a Nutshell
Two main grapes varieties make the wines of Burgundy: Chardonnay for the Whites and Pinot Noir for the Reds.
In term of appellation (The name of the wine written on the label of the bottle), the production is divided into four kinds:
- 50% Regional Appellation. (Bourgogne, Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Nuit…).
- 35% Village Appellation. Take the name of the closest village or city where the vines come from (Beaune, Gevrey-Chambertin…).
- About 10% Single Vineyard Appellation: Premier Cru (1st growth). There are more than 600 Premiers Crus (Beaune Grèves Premier Cru).
- Less than 1% Single Vineyard Appellation: Grand Cru. There are 33 Grands Crus (Montrachet Grand Cru, La Tâche Grand Cru…).
About the ”Wine Makers”
They are mostly very small holdings with a peasant mentality. It exist different categories of wineries:
- What is called a negociant-bottled blend who make wine from different growers (Bouchard Père et Fils, Joseph Drouhin and Louis Jadot).
- A négociant-bottled wine made exclusively from the negotiant own vineyards (Bouchard Père et Fils, Faiveley).
- A domaine-bottled wine made by a vine-grower. The quality will vary tremendously depending on who makes the wine.
- A wine made by a talented winemaker who owns his own vineyards but also buys fruit from other growers.
Price-quality inconsistency
What is relevant to be aware of is that it is not because a wine has such appellation on its label that it means that it is of a good quality.
The most expensive wines in the world are being found in Côte d’Or. We know that. Names such as Romanée Conti that has been sold in the past at no less than 11.916 € a bottle (14.790 US$)!
Let’s take the example of the Château du Clos de Vougeot that you can appreciate above. Clos de Vougeot is classified as a Grand Cru and is constituted of 50 hectares shared by 69 owners!
This is the little dirty secret of Burgundy as you can see: very often a vineyard holding is too small to be vinified separately! So it is very relevant to know WHO is BEHIND the wine and WHAT is their philosophy, how to they work and in the case of Clos de Vougeot how the vines are treated and who are its neighbors.
PLACE OF HISTORY
Viticultural history dates back over a thousand years and makes Burgundy one of the oldest wine growing regions in the world.
Burgundy has much more to offer than its local fine wines. It was in its heyday the most powerful duchy of France. Its territory spread as far north as Holland and as far east as Flanders. The dukes of Burgundy placed a fortune beautifying their city, Dijon that is definitely worth a visit!
Many sightseeings are within an hour’s drive: medieval villages with the city of Beaune located in the middle of the Slope of Gold, Renaissance Castles, Abbeys and the Morvan National Park which is wonderful for hiking and biking.
Activities and Places not to be missed
Along the wine trail
You will find in any local Tourism center a good map and a little book with all the directions that you need in order to visit some wineries and of course taste their wines!
Here are a few recommendations:
Jane et Sylvain
9 Rue du Chêne, 21220 Gevrey-Chambertin, France. +33 3 80 34 16 83 — janeetsylvain@hotmail.fr
4 hectares, certified 100% organic since 2003
Jane and Sylvain is the story of Sylvain, a Parisien, who fell in love with a girl from Burgundy, Jane. Sylvain discovered that in addition to his love for Jane, he also had a passion for wine and Burgundy. When they started working together back in 1993 they decided to reduce the use of chemical products on their vines. Over time, they continued to reduce their dependence on chemicals until they became completely organic.
From Bourgogne Passetoutgrain to Gevrey Chambertin Premier Cru, their wines are very well balanced and delicious. Come and have a visit! Sylvain will be happy to spend some time with you and to tell you their story! Wines prices are very reasonable from 10 to 22 euros and of exceptional quality.
Chandon de Briailles
1, rue Soeur Goby, 21420 Savigny-les-Beaune, France (+33 3 80 21 52 31). contact@chandondebriailles.com
This is a biodynamic, 13-hectare winery, with important holdings in Corton, Corton-Charlemagne, Savigny-lès-Beaune and Pernand Vergelesses, that has been in the hands of the de Nicolay family since 1834. Today Count and Countess Claude and François de Nicolay run the estate. Features of their winemaking include the use of whole clusters and avoidance of new oak. Their wines are exceptional, elegant and a pure reflection of the terroir. Moreover, it is possible to spend the night at their estate. Their house and garden are enchanting and well worth a visit.
Didier Montchovet
23 rue de la gare, 21190 Nantoux-Meursault, France. +33 3 80 26 03 13. domaine@montchovet.fr
Working the Vineyards by Horse.
Didier is one of Burgundy’s pioneers in biodynamic wines! From age 12, he knew he wanted to become a winemaker and over time was attracted to making wines in a more natural way. He grew up in a wine family, but his father had no interest in organic practices. So when the time came, Didier went in this direction on his own. For five years he looked for a vineyard and was able to purchase the first one in 1984 in the village where he grew up. Today Didier Montchovet has 13 hectares of vines and, in my opinion, his wines simply must be tried! I loved everything I tasted and the story behind the Didier wines. Being there allows you to get caught up in the emotion of the wine and the story behind it.
Caveau de Puligny in Côte-de-Beaune.
1, rue de Poiseul, 21190 Puligny-Montrachet, France - +33 3 80 21 96 78 — wallerand.julien@wanadoo.fr
Still a young man in his 30s, Julien Wallerand is originally from the north of France and son of the former head-sommelier at Caveau de Puligny in Côte-de-Beaune. Today Julien is the owner of that restaurant and he is proud of the fact that he annually tastes about 2,000 wines from the region. With this impressive number, he picks “the best wines of Burgundy.” As a result, his restaurant is a must-visit when exploring the “Burgundy Trail,” if you want to discover a range of wines from different boutique growers assembled in one place. You will also want to hear the many stories that Julien shares with his guests. During the summer months, Julien opens the terrace and the staff can propose small bites to enhance your tasting.
Dijon
Capital of the most powerful duchy of France in the Middle-Ages, Dijon has inherited a unique cultural and architectural heritage within one of the greatest conserved areas in the country. Follow the owl’s trail and go back in time through 22 sites located in the historical center.
Beaune and the Hôtel Dieu
The Hospices of Beaune began in 1443 by the will of Nicolas Rolin and Guigone de Salins to build a hospital: the Hôtel-Dieu.
The originality of this institution lies in the vineyard of 60 hectares among the best appellations of Burgundy. All vines come from legacies and donations, and their production is marketed every year at an auction on the 3rd Sunday of November, as part of the world’s most famous charity auction. Thanks to its heritage, this hospital institution plays a leading role in the two major activities of Beaune and its region: tourism and wine.
FOOD
If you’re a food lover like I am, Burgundy will delight you!
Cheese
Epoisses is the home of the famous smellly, tasty, fine cheese of the same name made since the 16th century.
Visit the Gaugry Cheese Factory in Brochon (a stone’s throw from Gevrey Chambertin).
The Family has owned the factory for 3 generations and made a washed rind soft cheese that so pleased the locals in the neighboring village that they called it l’ami du Chambertin (Friend of Chambertin). This is the all mark of Gaugry.
Epoisses AOC, Ami du Chambertin, Soumaintrain, Palet de Bourgogne, Le Petit Gourmand, Plaisir au Chablis, Le Petit Creux and Cendré de Vergy.
Regional dishes
Boeuf Bourguignon, Charolais Beef, Bresse Chickens, snails, Oeufs en Meurette, Jambon Persillé, Coq au vin, frogs, all are famous Burgundy dishes.
Crème de cassis is another local specialty. This is a sweet, dark and red liqueur made from blackcurrants.Several cocktail are made with it, including the very popular wine cocktail, kir.
Made with crème de cassis (1/4) and Bourgogne Aligoté (3/4) (White wine from Burgundy). It is usually drunk as an aperitif.
Named after Félix Kir, charismatic canon, former resistant during second world war and mayor of the city of dijon. It is said that he created Kir to promote the white wines of Burgundy that needed a hand to be sold. It popularized the drink by offering it at receptions to visiting delegations.
The famous Mustard of Dijon, le pain d’épice, anis de Flavigny are other specialties from the region.
Restaurants
You will find also, Michelin-starred restaurants that are worth a stop!
- La Côte St-Jacques (Joigny)
- Le Relais Bernard Loiseau (Saulieu)
- Hostellerie de Levernois (Beaune)
- Le Chassagne (Chassagne-Montrachet)
- Le Pré aux Clercs (Dijon)
- Maison Lameloise (Chagny)
If you follow the wine trail beyond Maconnais you will end up in Lyon, which is a stunning city where you will have to spend at leasat a few days to visit!
USEFUL INFORMATION
Tourism Center — Dijon (+33 892 700 558)
11 rue des Forges, 21000 Dijon
Most towns and villages have local tourist offices. They are often close for lunch, between 12:30–2.30 pm.
Tourism Center — Beaune (+33 3 80 26 21 30)
1, rue de l’Hôtel-Dieu, 6 bd Perpreuil, 21–200 Beaune.
Burgundy Wine Institute
A place where you will find all the information that you need about the wine of Burgundy (Maps, wine trails, wineries…)
Currency: EURO € — 1 € for 1,24 US$ — 1 US$ for 0,81€.
Telephone Code: from abroad, dial 0033 then leave off the 0 at the start of the phone number. Most Burgundy numbers start with 03.
CALL TO ACTION
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